Saturday, January 28, 2017

Tea and Totems

Our week in Canada, ironically enough, began on the day President Trump was inaugurated. We laughingly speculated long lines at the border but of course that was not the case. Our original plan was to cross to Vancouver island from Port Angelus but that Ferry was closed this week for annual repairs. The Seattle Ferry no longer takes cars this far so we headed up I-5 to enter Canada by land . A short drive took us to the port where we caught the ferry to the island.
Passing another ferry


Uncertain of weather conditions , traffic and crossing delays, we left Anderson island early.To our delight it was another clear day in terms of both weather and traffic and we arrived in Victoria two hours before our check-in time. This gave us time to walk about and renew our acquaintance with the city we had last visited in 2011. A late lunch of (what else?) fish and chips at the Bard and Banker Pub  https://bardandbanker.com/  and browsing the shops kept us busy until check in time.

Our very modern condo on the 11th floor provided amazing views of the city and was within walking distance of almost everything Victoria has to offer. We were even able to find fresh winter salmon in the local grocery store which made a delicious dinner Saturday night.

Sunday was another beautiful day so we went across the street to watch the second NFL playoff game at Sticky Wicket http://strathconahotel.com/venue/sticky-wicket/ then walked over to Pagliacci's  http://www.pagliaccis.ca/ for dinner and to listen to live music. Even at night it has not been too cold, We have not needed out heavy coats, just long sleeve shirts with sweaters.

Victoria is the capitol of British Columbia and the Parliament building is beautiful. Since the assembly does not return to session until February 14 we were able to go in without it being too crowded.
   
The Chamber
The Seat of  BC Government 
         











 We spent the morning there, had lunch at another Pub (what a
surprise)  http://www.bartholomewspub.com/ then went to the Royal BC Museum.This museum had an amazing collection of items from the large number of First People (as they call Native Americans), including a long house and totem poles both inside and out.





The dagger used by Hawaiians to kill Captain Cook














The city is an interesting mix of heritages. British and Chinese culture and traditions existing side by side with that of  the First People. While this has not always been the case (as we learned in the museum) there is a palpable feeling of co-operation and respect here, similar to what we felt in Europe last summer.


   Victoria has the 2nd largest Chinatown in Canada                                        






Tuesday we got in our car for the first time since our arrival and drove over to Fishermans Wharf. most of the businesses were closed for the winter but we did get to walk around the community of floating houses that were there.

These give houseboat a new meaning





   It was lunch time so we drove along the water stopping at  Oak Bay Marina  http://www.marinarestaurant.com/ for cedar planked salmon, spinach salad and steamed clams.

Aunt Marchs House?



In the afternoon we visited Craigdarroch Castle, a Victorian estate built by coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, a contemporary and friend of Stanford and the California Big 4. I was particularly excited to learn that some of the rooms had been used for the filming of one of my favorite movies, Little Women, (the 1994 version).





Another dry but cold day on Wednesday (temperatures in the 40's) so we set off to Esquimalt,(a suburb of Victoria) and the Songhees trail. This mostly paved trail along the Victoria waterfront provided us with a "good stretch of the legs" as we completed just over 4 miles.


Floating Sculpture













With the condo just behind the Empress Hotel how could we not participate in that most British of rituals- tea time. We arrived early and were rewarded with a seat by the fire. It was a perfect way to spend an afternoon. http://www.fairmont.com/empress-victoria/pdf/emp-tea-menu-jan-2017/

Look at the leaves to select your tea


Three levels of Deliciousness




















John finds a friend

Thursday morning was again cold but dry so we explored Beacon Hill Park. It is a bird watchers dream as we saw both mallard and harlequin ducks, yellow warblers, ravens and of course, peacocks. We walked through the park then across the street to admire the rugged coastline of the island.




                                                                                   
Although this is our third time in Victoria we discovered so much about this charming city. A week is not long enough to explore all it has to offer. Even though some shops and restaurants were closed for the winter the lack of tourists let us experience Victoria as the locals do. We leave tomorrow but I know we will return.





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