While we thoroughly enjoyed this first step to Egypts past we were just learning about Egypts present. Throughout the day on Luxor's west bank the vendors were more than persistent; They bordered on aggressive. A simple no thank you was never enough. Vendors would follow us down the street determined to sell a “genuine” alabaster head of King Tut or a scarf woven by someone's blind mother. Children would stop in front of us in order to sell a bookmark. Experience has taught us that if you buy from one the other vendors will descend on you to get their sale so as firmly and politely as possible we said no thank you and kept walking. But sometimes even the most seasoned and experienced traveller finds themselves in a difficult situation with a local.
We had chosen to stay on the west bank because that is where most of the historical places are located. between donkey carts, foot traffic and too many vehicles of questionable road worthiness, renting a car and driving ourselves was not an option. We decided to try to find a taxi or single car hire to take us where and when we wanted to go. This had worked well in the Caribbean and in Northern Ireland. As we went out for dinner the night we arrived we noticed that this type of arrangement was available almost everywhere. We were approached by many and ultimately negotiated the price and details of our excursion with Muhammad believing he would be our driver. Our first surprise came the next morning when he introduced us to his “brother” Omar who would actually be the driver. Our next surprise was when Omar drove us to the tourist office to buy our entrance tickets to the sights we had chosen. No wonder we had such a good price, Muhammad had been deliberately deceiving in his information showing us pictures and information about what he would provide as an independent tour guide.
As he dropped us at our first sight, Medinet Habu, Omar said he would be back in an hour after he had some breakfast. We pointed out that we were told he would wait as we might not need an entire hour. Sure enough, we were done in 45 minutes and Omar wasn't there. We went across the street (where he said he would be) and had a cup of coffee while we waited.The waitress was not surprised.. She told us this happened all the time; drivers would drop people, leave to smoke a hookah with friends then come back much later for the customers. This was good for her business she admitted but not for the tourist industry in general. Fifteen minutes later-which made our wait a half hour- he returned.
Our displeasure was expressed in no uncertain terms and at the Ramesseum Omar waited in the parking lot. However as we approached our next stop Deir el-Bahari, Omar told us he had to pick up someone else and drop them off at the temple we had visited earlier but he would definitely be back to pick us up at 2. He arrived at 2:45 with more excuses than a kid caught with his hand in the cookie jar; the people arrived late, there was traffic, the road was closed by the police, a train crossing held him up.
As we approached the neighborhood where we were staying we saw Muhammed waving to us. With him was a very large German Shepherd. Was he just out walking his dog or was this a not so subtle attempt at intimidation knowing we had not received what we had paid for? It didn't matter. John took the lead on the direction of the conversation, firmly stating that we had been deliberately mislead as to price and terms of service and we would not pay the amount previously agreed upon. Omar stood by the car, nodding in agreement as Muhammed looked to him with the description of each charge .Our position being stated, Muhammed said something in Arabic to Omar who quickly got in the car and drove away.
With his attention completely on us now Muhammed suggested we go into his friends shop next to us to discuss this matter and have some tea. At this point the friend, Ahmed, came out to also invite us in for tea. Ahmed had lived in England for a few years and had a better command of the English language. It appeared he was the designated mediator in these situations. We went in but declined the offer of a seat and tea. John again explained why we would not pay the full price. Ahmed agreed that we had been mislead, but deliberately? Oh no it was just a different way of doing business. After all how could an independent business compete with large companies if the costs were all included? So ,Ahmed decreed, we should pay the agreed on price, have some tea and the matter would be settled.
Not so fast. At the time of the negotiation John had asked if everything was included in the price. There was no misunderstanding. Also, the driver was to be available at our convenience which, John reiterated, was a reason we had not gone with a large group. Another conversation in Arabic between the Egyptians began, complete with head shaking and hand waving. Finally Ahmed turned to us and said,”Muhammad is very upset that you were abandoned by Omar. He will be dealt with, but what can you expect, he is just some boy from the neighborhood Muhammad was trying to help by giving him a job. So go ahead and pay the money and we will drink some tea.
Ok, stop with the tea. And this morning Omar had been your brother. The issue of the price not including tickets as promised had not been addressed. We were getting more irritated by the second. Another conversation, then Ahmed expressed what we discovered was the mantra of the merchants; It is unfortunate that you are not happy but you can afford to pay the agreed price. It is nothing to you. You have money he does not so if you feel cheated that is regrettable. Just pay the price, we will have some tea and it will be done.
That was it. Apparently its Ok to cheat and deceive us because we are tourists. John had had enough He took out his wallet and some money. ‘This is what I have and this is what I will pay for the transportation.” he said. “ The amount we agreed upon included tickets which we have already paid for. Take this or nothing but we are leaving now”. As we moved for the door the men quickly agreed that this would be acceptable and would we now like some tea? I don't think we even answered as we walked out, wiser for the experience and better prepared for the remainder of our time in Egypt.
No comments:
Post a Comment