Freedom

The Flame of Democracy on Constitution Hill

After our over the moon experience on Safari the politics of South Africa were once again brought to the forefront during our stay in Johannesburg. Although we were in a suburb we were warned by local  residents of Cape Town and Pilanesberg to be careful in Joburg. As we drove into Bryanston, a few miles outside of the city, everything appeared quite nice. It was not until we were walking to a restaurant for dinner that we began to notice things; 1. all of the homes had walls at least six feet tall with barbed or razor wire on the top and signs declaring this or that armed security company protected this home. 2. we were the only white people out walking even though the sun was up and it was a pleasant afternoon. The other people all appeared to be domestics returning from their day off (it was Sunday) 3. drivers in passing cars would turn around to look at us as if we were unusual. And we were.

 Our apartment was lovely. We were able to Uber to the market for groceries, very upscale, and the selection was very good. We even found some of the produce which had been served at the Lodge. Things seemed normal yet somehow not.

 We asked our hosts for suggestions of things to do and see in Joburg. This question seemed to confuse them. They finally suggested the one place we knew about-Constitution Hill and the old prison and fort.  They admittedly rarely went into the city. Again this seemed odd for the owners of a vacation rental.

 Having just finished reading Trevor Noah’s book, Born a Crime, I was very interested to see Joburg. As our uber driver took us to Constitution HIll we passed more walls and wire clad buildings. The entire area appeared as if an attack was imminent. Armed guards were patrolling shopping centers and bus stations while above them campaign posters with faces of all colors promised a “government for all”.

 The old fort and prison on Constitution Hill were a continuation of the story at Robben Island. Even among prisoners discrimination was overt. The amount and type of food depended on the prisoners race. The same went for shower time and sleeping conditions. This prison had been “home” to some of the most influential civil rights leaders of the 20th century including Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi. Some of the buildings were torn down but the bricks and other materials were used to construct walkways and part of the Courtroom that now stands at the top of the hill. The glass walls and TV monitors attest to the desire to make the law and its enforcement equal and visible to all. In one of the remaining towers formerly used to house prisoners awaiting trial and sentencing there now burns the Flame of Democracy. This perpetual flame was lit in 2011 to commemorate the 15th anniversary of the signing of the Constitution.

 But flames and symbols and campaign promises can’t hide the very visible truth. This is a country still struggling in many areas for equality and opportunity. People in the townships, areas on the edge of the city, are living in what amounts in many cases to a refugee camp. Some of the people are indeed from other countries but many are citizens of South Africa. One or two room dwellings made from corrugated metal are pushed in next to each other with limited or no indoor plumbing.  Piles of garbage fill any space between the homes. People wander aimlessly or sit in a small bit of shade provided by the homes. There are no trees to give shelter from the summer sun. Unemployment is high and so is crime. We were cautioned more than once by drivers to avoid these areas. Apparently even the police won't enter certain townships.

 And so people don’t go out. They don't walk in their neighborhoods. they don't sit in their yards unless it is behind guarded walls. They don’t visit their city. In an attempt to equalize racial profiling by governments of the past the new South Africa has allowed for crime without consequence. This combined with a 27.6% unemployment rate has resulted in a rise in the crime rate particularly robbery.

 While Capetown had been such a friendly, vibrant, multi ethnic city, Johannesburg and the surrounding area is one of suspicion, fear and division. The promise of freedom has not been realized. The struggle continues.