Northern Ireland.How could we understand? The very existence of Ireland as an independent nation while part of the Island remained under British rule was confusing enough, (and still a surprise to many Americans) but throw in fighting in the streets over religion? It seems ridiculous in a modern Western country like Great Britain. From quick bits on the evening news in the 70’s and 80’s, stories of armed military personnel and checkpoints from those who visited Belfast in the 90’s and finally a truce in 1998 with the signing of the Good Friday Agreement, the fighting was the only story we knew. The American press presented it to us as the fault of the terrorist group, the Irish Republican Army (IRA). During our travels here we discovered there was more to the story.
The Troubles, as the period from 1968-1998 is known, is only a piece in the centuries long conflict between the Irish and the English. As we traveled through the Republic of Ireland we had learned a great deal about the abuses the Irish people suffered at the hands of the English. Now we were crossing into the region of Ulster and the country of Northern Ireland. This part of the island has remained part of the United Kingdom since the rest of Ireland became independent in 1922. Here we hoped to learn what the news didn't tell us about The Troubles.
We started where the violence began; in Londonderry/Derry. The city goes by both names, a clumsy but effective part of the truce. It was here that The Troubles became international news when police fired into a group of Irish Catholics and others peacefully marching for civil rights in 1972. This event was known as Bloody Sunday. But the history of the conflict goes back to the 1600’s when businessmen from London received a charter from the King to confiscate Irish owned land and “plant” settlers from England and Scotland in the city to eliminate Irish control of the region. It was at this time that the majority Irish Catholics in Ulster would become outcasts and were legally discriminated against by the minority, but Protestant (English) controlled government. Thus began the struggle for equality under the law for Irish Catholics.
We visited the Tower Museum http://www.derrystrabane.com/towermuseum within the city walls which covers the events of the past to where the city is today. Here the appearances were that the conflicts had been resolved and the city was “moving forward together”. Yet as we left the walled area in search of the famous murals we entered a neighborhood that was obviously at a lower economic level known as Free Derry. We saw not only the murals but monuments to those who had been killed in their fight against religious discrimination. It seemed that the city was moving forward, but not necessarily together.
As we spent the next days in the Northern Ireland countryside we began to notice the flags that were flying. In some areas it was the Union Jack; in others it was the Flag of the Republic of Ireland. These silent symbols spoke volumes. This is a country divided.
Upon our arrival in Belfast we knew we wanted to continue our education of The Troubles. We discovered from talking to others that the best way was to take a taxi tour of West Belfast. http://taxitrax.com/about/ .
Belfast’s largest Protestant community, Shankill, is separated from The Falls — the city’s largest Catholic neighborhood — by a peace wall first erected during The Troubles. This dividing wall is the only one still in use in Europe, the gates continue to be locked at 6 each night.
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| At the Peace Wall |
Our driver Kevin did a good job explaining both sides of the conflict as he pointed out key events and people that were represented on murals throughout the area as well as taking us to specific locations of violence. Although the wall is scheduled to come down by 2023 it may take another generation before the people feel secure enough for it to be removed.
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| Independence without Ulster |
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| honoring a Protestant Sniper |
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| Bullet holes in a school |
Yes, the fighting was religious based. But the government sanctioned discrimination against Irish Catholics was the true cause for The Troubles. As the number of Catholics or those who wish a united Ireland increases, the current situation may change. We can only pray that whatever the future may bring it will be peaceful.
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| this poster was hanging in our apatment |
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