Points and Penguins

  Having taught world history for many years we were both excited to have the opportunity to see what the Europeans of the 15th century considered the end of the world. Named the Cape of Storms when Bartolomeu Dias discovered there was an end to Africa, it was renamed the Cape of Good Hope by King John II of Portugal. He thought the name change promoted a more encouraging image for future exploration. And so we rented a car to drive to the place where the Portuguese established an ocean route to Asia.

  Even for us it is not all about history. On the way we stopped at Boulders Beach to see the colony of African penguins. These birds are smaller than many of their Antarctic cousins but share many of the same characteristics: black and white, funny walk, great swimmers. We found many of them nesting in the sand either with a newly hatched chick or sitting on an egg. These penguins are on the endangered list for a number of reasons including their own behaviors.  They nest in the open under the hot sun, abandoning the egg if a mate takes too long to return from the ocean. Both egg and chick ar susceptible to sea gulls; we watched a gull swoop down and steal an egg away from a distracted parent. Some years none of the chicks survive as parents stop caring for them when the chicks are about two months old. Adult penguins are also vulnerable especially when they molt. During the 15 day process of losing old feathers as new ones grow in the penguins can't swim. They stand at the edge of the water and hope to not be attacked by a gull or another larger bird or to starve to death because they didn't eat enough prior to the molt.

  This colony at least has some protection from threats by humans. Boardwalks take you up and around the beach, close enough to see but not to touch. Fences surround the area to provide extra protection but the penguins themselves choose to live dangerously. They have been known to waddle up hills, through the fences and onto the road. Signs in the area warn drivers of possible penguin crossing.

  As we continued on to Cape point we saw new signs warning us this time of baboons in the road. Baboons! We weren't on safari yet here amid beach front houses the animals lived in the nearby hills.

  After about an hour we reached Cape Point, part of Table Mountain National Park. We drove through the park to the old lighthouse at the point, built in the 1850’s to warn passing ships of the dangerous rocky coast. Unfortunately the lighthouse sat too high and was either hidden by

clouds or gave the impression that the coast was safe to approach. A new light house was built in 1911.

 The old lighthouse sits about a kilometer up a rocky cliff. Although a funicular is available to ride to the top we chose to hike. The distance wasn't bad but the path was quite steep. Periodic stops  offered breathtaking views of the coast. We even saw a few surfers who had carried their boards down cliffs to catch some waves an an isolated beach.

  What goes up must come down. After reaching the summit and taking the requisite selfie we began our descent. On our way up we had seen signs cautioning us about baboons as well as physical evidence that the animals had recently been on the path (phew).  Upon reaching the visitors center at the bottom of the hill, a baboon crossed right in front of us as if we didn't exist. We followed him, along with many others, as he nonchalantly crossed the parking lot to sit on a wall overlooking the ocean; apparently oblivious to the small commotion he was causing.

  We moved on to our ultimate destination of the day. Like Dias our journey ended at the Cape of Good Hope.  While the rocky coast was no place to land a ship, let alone settle there, it was as King John II had named it; a place of hope for bringing together goods and ideas from Europe and Asia by way of the sea.

Up, Up and Away

  Table Mountain is perhaps Cape Town’s most iconic landmark. It can be seen for miles around the peninsula. Nelson Mandela even commented that he and the other political prisoners would look at it from Robben island and considered it a “beacon of hope”. With a height of 1087 meters and age age believed to be over 600 million years (making it one of the oldest mountains on earth) it is an impressive sight. Some days clouds sit on top creating a “tablecloth effect” down the sides. Going to the top is an absolute Cape Town must do.

  There are always problems with must do’s. In this case there were two of them. Both involved the actual getting to the top. One method is to hike. There are a number of trails going up for the young and vigorous. Some of these trails are quite steep; involving some actual rock climbing, narrow paths around boulders and the occasional ladder to climb. Others have steps in some areas that seem to go up forever. The quickest is said to take about one  and a half to two hours of strenuous hiking over not very scenic terrain.

  The other way up is on a cable car; not bad if it is the San Francisco type- rails on a road. Alas this is not the case. The Table Mountain cable car is like a ski lift: a car suspended on a narrow cable taking the passengers to dizzying height while dangling in the air.

  While this may be a no brainer, it was quite the dilemma for me. A two hour hike for some could take me four or more hours. I didn't want to blow out my already bad knee so early in the trip. Balance has never been a strong suit for me (ok, I am Clumsy) and the trails were steep and narrow. On the other hand, hanging hundreds of feet in the air has caused more than one panic attack in my life.  All it takes is one really good gust of wind and we sail off the cable onto the rocks below.

  You may be thinking there is another option. Nope, not going up was not an option. I didn't come all this way to be an old woman and sit things out. With that thought in mind we bought our tickets for the cable car.

  Luckily we chose a beautiful, sunny, wind free day. After waiting until our assigned time,(and watching cars go up and down, much like the feeling in my stomach) we boarded our car. There were no seats so we stood by a window where I could hold onto a pole and bury my head in Johns shoulder.

  As we began our ascent I felt my hand slipping from the pole and the floor moving under my feet. Oh dear, the floor was rotating. While this allowed for beautiful panoramic 360 degree views for everyone it robbed me of my security pole.  Thankfully I had John to hang on to. As we travelled further and further up I was able to peek over occasionally, trying my best to look out and not down. Within a few minutes we had reached the top and my feet were once more on solid land.

  Was it worth it? A thousand times YES! the views were magnificent. Trails were available for all levels of hiking. They even had a place where you could (for an additional fee) hang off the side of the mountain with ropes. Needless to say we passed on that one. We especially enjoyed watching the Dassies, or rock hyrax play on the rocks. This rodent like animal is actually quite anatomically similar to an elephant.  

  Going back down provided the same two options but this time I felt much better about entering the cars. I even managed to give the evil eye to some misbehaving middle schoolers on a field trip. As we descended I was able to look out over the beautiful city and enjoy it from a different perspective. I guess FDR was right; all we have to fear is fear itself. And heights.

Summer in the City

It seems strange to be in summer in January, but such is the southern hemisphere. As with almost every place we have visited Summertime is filled with outdoor activities throughout the city.  We have been delighted at the variety available and have tried to enjoy them whenever we can.

Weekends can be counted on to have street fairs and farmers markets. Some of these have farm fresh produce, others feature local artist and craftsmen selling their wares. All of them have had incredible food courts selling everything from assorted grilled mushrooms on a stick to deconstructed eggs benedict. Foods from all over africa are available- tagines, shosaska with eggs,and samosas to name a few. In addition there are giant pans of spanish paella, german wurst on pretzel rolls and english cream scones. The prices are low and the taste is incredible.

  Music also is in abundance on these warm,dry summer nights. We have been enjoying the a capella groups singing traditional songs on the V&A and in the downtown area. perhaps the best was the concert at Kirstenbosch Botanical gardens. A short uber ride away gave us an afternoon in acres of gardens featuring plants native to the Cape as well as a sit on the lawn concert at sunset. The band Freshly Ground, are a local group with an ethno-jazz alternative sound. It was a great time in an incredible setting.

  The restaurants and cafes have their rooftop dining areas open without fear of rain. The sun is up until 8:30 ish and the people stay out late even if tomorrow is a workday. We hear that Carnivale in February is an event no to be missed but miss it we shall as our time here will have ended before the festivities begin.

 The vibe of this city is cool, laid back, and friendly. It is the perfect place to spend the winter, here in the summer.

The Island

 Possibly the #1 attraction in Cape Town in Robben Island.  Like San Francisco’s Alcatraz, this island served as a prison before being turned into a national park in the 1990’s. Unlike Alcatraz, this prison goes back centuries with the imprisonment of both actual criminals and those that fought against colonial rule. Many kings of the african people who led their people in battle were imprisoned as far back as the 1700’s. The island also served as a leper colony 1800’s and was fortified with artillery as part of the defense of South Africa during World War II. The prison gained its international notoriety in the 1960’s as the place of interment for those who spoke out against the policies of apartheid which were the law of the land at that time.

  From the V&A we took a boat across the bay to the island. The ride only took about 20 minutes; we were lucky to have a sunny day with little wind providing an enjoyable trip. Upon our arrival  we were first taken on a bus tour around the island. We saw the village where the prison guards had lived, the leper cemetery and the limestone and bluestone mines where the prisoners worked each day. We

the lighthouse

paused at the lighthouse, built in 1865 to warn passing ships of the dangerous rocks surrounding the island. When we passed the minimum security prison our guide informed us that this was for convicted criminals; maximum security we reserved for political criminals. As we continued our drive we were fortunate to see a springbok and a leopard tortoise. The bus tour lasted about an hour. It was now time to go into the actual maximum security compound.

Our guide points to a picture of himself being release

  We were met outside the double row of razor wire topped fences by our guide. He was a former political prisoner who had been given a death sentence for politically motivated sabotage. The end of apartheid also overturned his conviction. He was released after serving ten years. We were taken to a large cell where up to 50 men on death row were held together. Here we sat and heard stories of daily life in the prison. Next we moved on to the cells of individuals who were considered to dangerous to be with others. the danger was not from their actions but from their words. Our last stop was the cell of Nelson Mandela, future president of South Africa who served 17 years of his imprisonment on the island.

Mandelas cell

  Sometimes we are so busy leading our lives that we don’t realize historic events are happening if not in front of us but during our lifetimes. The freedoms that we take for granted and sometime abuse in the United States were cause for lengthy imprisonment or even death, not centuries ago but at the end of the 20th century. Robben Island stands as a testament to those who fought and sacrificed to stop actual abuse of government and oppression of people. I can only end by asking what is the price of freedom and would I be willing to pay it? The men of Robben Island knew their answer.   

Food, Glourious Food

  No one told me that Cape Town was a foodie city. I read Bon Appetite and Food and Wine magazines.  I watch Top Chef and the Food Network. I do not recall any article or episode talking about the amazing array of unique and delicious food that is available here.  In addition to old standbys served new ways we have enjoyed dishes and food items we have never heard of. Items like Gatsbys, Biltong and Chakalaka. Serving what to are us are exotic meats, (Kudu, Ostrich, Springbok) may be found on many menues flavored with influences from Portugal, Britain, the Netherlands and the entire continent of Africa.

 

Russian Gatsby

 The Gatsby, created here in Capetown in 1976, is considered by the locals to be the ultimate street food. It is simply a REALLY big sandwich (feeds 4 or more people if you get a whole one), that has some type of meat, a lot of sauce, a bt of lettuce and tomato and chips on it. We are talking british chips which are like American steak fries. These sandwichs are found all over the Cape, from nice restaurants on the V&A ( John had his first one here-braised lamb) to fast food stands in the downtown area. As we shared  half Russian sausage Gatsby for lunch I could not help but think of Andrew Zimmer and Anthony Bourdain- this is their kind of eating.

 Another iconic food here is Biltong. The name roughly translates to strip of meat from the Dutch. The meat is marinated than air dried to preserve it, originally for sailors of the Dutch East India Company. Later it was used by those exploring and settling furthur inland in Southern Africa. Today it is mainly used as a snack food like we would eat jerky. Biltong is different in a number of ways: it is thicker than jerky,never smoked, marinated in wine vinegar and spices, and not as hard to chew as jerky. We went to a tasting room  to try it made from beef, chicken and an assortment of game meats. The Kudu biltong home home with us.

Kudu Biltong

 Chakalaka is just fun to say. it can be served as a side dish or a relish depending on how it is made. It is also popular served with Pap, a porridge of maize probably like polenta. So what is it? A mixture of tomatoes, beans, peppers, onions and spices and any other canned vegetables you may have.

According to Wikipedia, the source of all knowledge, it may have come from the gold mines of Johannesburg as a quick meal for the workers to put together after a shift. it also comes in a can if you don't want to make your own.

  More on this subject will have to wait- it’s dinner time.

History Old and New

Although discovered and named by the Portuguese, Cape of Good Hope had its first European residents from the Dutch East India Company.  These businessmen saw the advantage of having a place for their ships to resupply during the voyage from the Netherlands to the East Indies and back again. After all, the less supplies you carried, the more room for trade cargo. Of course ships from other nations were welcome to stop here too - for a fee.

As was typical of the 1600’s, the opinion of the people originally living here was neither requested or required. Armed conflicts between the Europeans and Africans were predictable resulting in the building of a fort to protect both European lives and profits.

Called the Castle of Good Hope this fortress was originally located on the coastline of Table Bay, but due to land reclamation the fort is now located inland. The yellow color and five point design reminded us of other colonial fort/castles we have seen in the Caribbean.

We were lucky to arrive in time to see a reenactment of the key ceremony. The ceremony is performed three times a day accompanied by narration broadcast over a loudspeaker. Soldiers in period Dutch uniforms march to the front of the commanders home. There the sergeant receives a key from the Commander. The unit marches to the gate, rings a bell and unlocks the outer gate. A patrol is sent out to insure that all is well, then the gate is fully opened and the key is marched back to the Commander.

The fort was reinforced when the British took over with the addition of three feet or so of brick on top of the walls. We were able to walk on top of the walls as well as go into the prison cell torture area. Many kings and leaders of the native people were imprisoned here prior to being executed or taken to Robben Island.

one of the rulers imprisoned here

After lunch at a tavern named for explorer Bartolomeu Dias, (delicious swordfish), we visited a museum of more recent history.

The District Six Museum tells the story of the forced removal of over 60,000 people of color from their homes between 1966 and 1982. The city’s apartheid government decided the area needed to be bulldozed and rebuilt as a white neighborhood. Ironically, much of the area demolished was not rebuilt as there was no demand to live in the area by the whites. Many believe the intent was not for “urban renewal” but merely an effort to breakup a thriving community.

street signs of the neighborhood

These two sites,( among many others,) tell a cautionary tale, that although centuries apart no good can come from one group of people believing and acting superior to others. It is a lesson that some in this world still have to learn.

Saturday in the Park

In addition to being near the V&A our apartment is also near the downtown. About a mile or so away is Cape Town's answer to Central Park; the Company’s Garden.

This park was actually first built as a garden in the 1650’s by the Dutch East India Company. Ships from all nations stopped to purchase fresh food as they sailed trade routes from Europe to Asia. Some of the park is still being planted with vegetables, mostly as a historic reference.

Surrounding the park are art and history museums as well as hotels and some embassies. Inside the walls are rose gardens, an aviary, fish ponds and playgrounds. We saw a wedding taking place on one of the lawns as well as wedding parties coming by for photos is a beautiful setting. But mostly we saw people: old, young, families, couples, singles and groups enjoying a beautiful day.

Our wandering led us to a cafe in the garden with plenty of outdoor seating. it was the perfect place to take a break, have a drink and take in the simple beauty of nature.

On The Waterfront

It is our custom to get out and explore our new neighborhood as soon as possible. It's also a terrific antidote to jet lag and time zone adjustments. Here in Capetown we are GMT+1 which is about 10 hours ahead of Southern California.

Day one of exploring revealed that we have a number of cool looking cafes and pubs connected to or near our apartment building but today's objective was to head down to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront (know as the V&A). It is an easy walk of about a mile, a good stretch of the legs after being seated in coach for the long flights.

 The waterfront was first built at Table Bay  by the Dutch East India Company as a place for their ships to restock with fresh food and water on the way to and from the East Indies. Later with the arrival and subsequent takeover by the British, the waterfront was expanded and a breakwater created to protect the ships from storms.  Over the centuries the V&A has expanded to meet the needs of the city. Today it serves the needs of both commercial and cruise ships as well as many personal watercraft. The historic docklands are a mixed-use area with a focus on retail, tourism and development with a working harbour at its center.

Although touristy, the atmosphere is festive with street performers around every corner and beautiful restored architecture from the early 1900’s. It feels a bit like EPCOT center without the actual Disney characters.  our lunch in an old Victorian building with a harbor view was very inexpensive by U.S. standards, promising even more value in other sections of the city.

With the threat of rain looming we cut our exploration short and took a cab back to our apartment.

2019-The Adventure Continues

As we enter our fourth year of travel it has become evident (to us at least), that the goal is now to see the world. 2019 arrives with our most ambitious and exotic itinerary by far as we set out for a 7 month adventure to explore parts of Africa, the Middle East and the Iberian Peninsula. While Spain and Portugal may not seem that exotic, as they were once part of the Muslim Empire under the Moors the culture has many similarities to both North Africa and Europe.

And so we began on January 8 with a suitcase, a backpack and over 30 hours in transit ahead.

Ready to Go

 A 13 hour flight to Istanbul brought us to an 8 hour layover. This was obviously a moment of planning miscalculation. We did not realize that Americans could once again get visas to Turkey. Had we been aware (or if I had checked) we would have stopped there for a week or two. Instead, it was back on a plane for an 11 hour flight to Cape Town, South Africa.

Even in our sleep deprived state (cat naps on the plane and on couches in the Lounge hardly replace a full night in a bed) we were struck with the tapestry of diversity that made up this city.  Thankfully a prearranged driver transported us to our apartment with a brief but informative narrative of landmarks, weather conditions and tips for enjoying the city and surrounding area.

our balcony overlooks the cruise port

We checked in, walked to the market a short block away for some bottled water and groceries then returned for some much needed sleep.

Time flies

I am sure you noticed. but in case you didn't let me point t out for you. I am WAY BEHIND on blog posts! over a year in fact. So far behind that it only makes sense to post the current trip while writing the posts for the previous ones the posting them.  So if you were excited to read about Asia or greece or the Midwest United States you will have to wait a bit longer. In the meantime, welcome to Africa.