As we drove from the Highlands to the Edinburgh, the Scottish capital we realized we had committed what for some would be a mortal sin- two weeks in Scotland without having Haggis. Now for some this would not be considered a sin as much as a demonstration of good sense. After all, the ingredients that make up this dish are not things most Americans would consider appetizing or even edible. But we are not opposed to some animal organs. Liver and hearts are fine-kidneys-no way! I was raised with fried chicken gizzards and make giblet gravy for my family on Thanksgiving,( John and others get gravy without the “bonus” protein). We had enjoyed Black Pudding in both England and Wales;how different could Haggis be? We resolved to correct this oversight at the first opportunity.
That opportunity arrived quicker than expected. About an hour later we stopped for lunch in Pitlochry, a small town known for its live theater and as a hiding place for Rob Roy Macgregor. Port Na Craig ,http://www.portnacraig.com/ is a lovely little restaurant and inn on the Tummel river across the street from the Pitlochry Festival Theater. There it was on the appetizer section of the lunch menu- Haggis, Neeps and Tatties accompanied by a whiskey jus. Never heard of it? Neeps are mashed turnips, Tatties are mashed potatoes and Haggis is …..Haggis. Think sausage patties, only these are a mixture of sheep heart, liver and lungs mixed with onion, oatmeal,suet, spices and salt. It is mixed with stock and traditionally encased in the animals stomach although most use artificial casings today. Mmm Mmm good?
John ordered it as a first course, just in case.
A lovely layered dish was brought out in a bowl. Potatoes on the bottom, then the Haggis and turnips on the top surrounded by a thin gravy or jus made with broth, whiskey and a little cream. It looked beautiful. Now for the moment of truth. It tasted like sausage with potatoes and turnips. It was actually quite good. The resourcefulness of the Scottish people was again demonstrated as things as humble as root vegetables and sheep organs were turned into a delicious and somewhat elegant dish. Mmm Mmm Mmm GOOD
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