Pilgrim Tales

Timing is everything but luck almost always has a hand in it. That was our case as we moved on to Canterbury. While in Dover we learned of King Henry II. Now in Canterbury we would come face to face (literally) with one of his most infamous acts.

Canterbury is the home of Canterbury Cathedral, mother church of the Anglican community and the

Becket's shrine is marked by a lamp

seat of the Archbishop. We were able to get a room on the church grounds at one of their conference centers. Although this allowed us free access to the cathedral we decided to see it for free in a more traditional way. We attended Sunday morning service there. Whatever your religious beliefs are or are not, this is an experience not to be missed. The service was conducted by the Dean of the Cathedral and included music by Mozart sung by a boys and mens choir. We were given seats in the choir next to the altar which allowed us to see and hear everything clearly. Across from us were students from Germany who appeared to be between the ages of 12-18. Some of the younger boys were quietly “goofing off” as they were out of sight of their chaperones. That is, until they saw me watching them. I gave them the “teacher look” and they did not move an inch for the rest of the service.( It’s nice to know that I’ve still got it.) After the service we toured the rest of the Cathedral. We saw the place where Thomas a’ Becket was murdered and the the story of the controversy regarding his burial.

The site of Beckets shrine is said to be the location where miraculous healings have occured. The cathedral itself has many stained glass windows depicting healing attributed to him either from dreams, drinking water mixed with his blood or through prayer. So many pilgrims traveled to this place that it became the inspiration for Geoffrey Chaucer's work, The Canterbury Tales. Many of these pilgrims from Europe would spend the night at Dover Castle after crossing the Channel before travelling on to Canterbury. The shrine itself was destroyed on the order of Henry VIII during the English Reformation in 1538. Whether his bones and ashes were removed and destroyed by the soldiers or whether they were retrieved and hidden by monks is a mystery of history. Although some speculation that a certain unmarked grave in the cathedral crypt holds the re buried remains, any investigation has proven to be inconclusive.

So what does this have to do with Henry II?

The day we arrived in Canterbury was the day the city re-enacts the penance of Henry II. Henry was accused of having Becket killed due to disagreements over the power of the King vs. the Church. Henry claimed that his knights acted alone but agreed to perform a ceremony of public penance to avoid excommunication. So there we were in downtown Canterbury watching as the “King” walked barefoot over cobblestones in a burlap shift throughout the town, periodically making speeches declaring his innocence. At the end he goes inside a church, as the real King did, to be flogged by Monks.( I don’t think our actor was actually flogged, he looked pretty good at a pub that afternoon)

Sorry, not sorry

Over to Dover

Once again major historic events have occurred in the same place. This time our intersection is in Dover. The legendary White Cliffs are the symbol of this Channel port in Kent. The city is only 21 miles across the water from France and has played a role both against and in support of Britain's closest neighbor.

Dover Castle, high on a hill is the centerpiece of the city. Whether serving as the first line of defense from an attack by the French during the middle ages or as the launching point for European invasions during both World Wars the castle stands as a silent witness of history. If you prefer older history, it is here also. The Anglo-Saxon church of St. Mary stands near the edge of the hill next to the Roman Pharos, one of the oldest standing lighthouses in the world. This one was used by the Romans to aid navigation across the English Channel.

 

Inside the castle walls the Great Tower re-creates the world of the Angevin Dynasty. From Henry II and his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine to their sons Richard the Lionheart and King John, the family drama plays out like a reality TV show.

Underneath the castle is a network of tunnels. Originally built by the forces of Louis of France as they laid siege to the castle the tunnels have served a variety of purposes. During the Napoleonic wars the tunnels were expanded and used as barracks for the military. The 20th century saw the tunnels re-figured again this time as a WWII hospital and as the naval operation command center. It was from here that Operation Dynamo, the plan to rescue the British Army from Dunkirk, was organized and executed. During the cold war the tunnels were transformed into one of Britain's seats of Government in case of a Nuclear Attack.

Whether you arrive by ship or by plane the Cliffs and the Castle are physical symbols that NOW you are in England.

There'll be bluebirds over the white cliffs of Dover

Tomorrow, Just you wait and see

There'll be love and laughter, And peace ever after

Tomorrow, When the world is free

Back to School

Our next stop took us back to the south and back to college. This time our stop was Cambridge. Founded in 1209 it is the second oldest University in the English speaking world. We were able to stay in a former manor home now owned by the University just outside the town. The building has been turned into a conference center and Dormitory so for a night we were technically living “on-campus”.

Our Dorm

Kings College

 The town is small with the schools of the University being the focus.  Although we were only there for one night the peaceful setting and academic environment made us want to return to school. Only as the professors this time.

Things That Go Bump In The Night

Neither of us are fans of scary things. John thinks they are silly and I think they are... scary. I have had what were either actual ghost encounters or the result of pain medication and an overactive imagination. I don't know or care which it is but I am more than happy to leave the ghost stories and experiences to others. Yet in very old places, especially ones with the history that the city of York has it is almost impossible to miss the scary stuff.

Normally we would skip the York Dungeon https://www.thedungeons.com/york/en/ but the city has such a history of nefarious characters such as Guy Fawkes and Dick Turpin that we decided to go, plus it was included on our city pass. The tour took us underground where we were led on a guided tour into rooms, each with an actor who told or showed us tales from the cities dark side. We did not know in advance that audience participation was required and I found myself in a powder keg of vipers as Hilda, Queen of the Vikings. Thankfully I was not the one found guilty and burned at the stake as a witch! There was just enough humor to tell the stories and legends with causing nightmares.

We did not expect any such activity from our visit to the Treasures house. Originally the home of the treasurer of the York Minster in 1091 the house passed through many private owners until it was acquired by the National Trust at the request of the last resident Frank Greene. Greene had the house restored included much of the furnishing to the way he believed it would have looked in the 17th -19th centuries. He was VERY specific about the arrangement of the furnishings, even having studs put in the floor to indicate where the legs of the furniture should go after the floor was cleaned. Upon his death he threatened to come back and haunt anyone who moved any item in the house from where he had placed it. Bold talk but apparently no action. While there are no reports of Frank Greene coming back (possibly because the furniture is placed correctly), Yorks’ most famous ghosts are said to occupy the cellar of the house. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/by-the-look-of-you-youve-seen-the-romans
Happily the cellar was both optional and an extra charge so we did not have any disturbing encounters.

We also managed to miss any activity in The Golden Fleece, advertised as the most haunted place in York.,( a claim shared with other pubs like the Snickleway Inn, the Black Swan and Ye Olds Starr Inn). Are any of these places really haunted? I am happier not knowing.

Time Travelers

The sheer amount of history we have encountered on this trip can make a persons head swim. Here in York and the surrounding area it is as if every major era in British history has left its mark.

If it is the ancient world that interests you stop by the Roman Bath Public House and visit the remains of the baths in the basement of the building. Or stop by the Minster to see the monument to Constantine the Great, who at this site was crowned Emperor of Rome in 306.

I did not expect to see Viking influences to such a large extent in England. I knew they raided the coast and established settlements in Ireland but I was surprised at how far inland they had gone. From the North Sea to York it is a distance of 41 miles. Of course there are good sized rivers,the Ouse and the Humber, that allowed the small settlement to grow into a prosperous trading city. The legacy of the Norse city has been preserved at the Jorvik Viking Center.

https://www.jorvikvikingcentre.co.uk/. Built on the actual location of part of the village discovered by archaeologists the center includes a Disney -like ride past homes and shops of the people  who settled here. The center includes a large number of display cases showing actual artifacts. In addition, costumed artists demonstrate arts and crafts of the period .

Throughout the city the emblem of the white rose is everywhere. We are in War of the Roses country. Along the old city walls at Monk Bar gate the story of Richard III is told. Follow the wall around to Micklegate Bar and learn of Henry VII. Same events, different points of view.

Yorks history isn’t all war and invasion. At Fairfax House http://www.fairfaxhouse.co.uk/ you see how the wealthy lived in 18th century York. Although the furnishings and decor are not original to the house it is all Georgian period authentic. If this is your style, don’t miss Tea at Grays Court Hotel https://www.grayscourtyork.com/. It is a little bit difficult to find but well worth the time. You can be served in the garden if the weather cooperates.

More modern history is on display northeast of York at Camp Eden. Used as a POW camp during WWII, the barracks have been turned into a museum. Each building represents a different time or place during the war. Plan on at least a half day.http://www.edencamp.co.uk/

A must see is the National Railway Museum https://www.railwaymuseum.org.uk/. From the

Flying Scotsman Engine to special cars for the Royal family this is a great museum for any train enthusiast. If looking at these engines and cars makes you long for a rail trip you are in luck. The Yorkshire Moors Steam Railway https://www.nymr.co.uk/pages/category/the-yorkshire-steam-railway-all-aboard-tv-show is not too far away. (We paired the day with Camp Eden) Harry Potter fans may recognize one of the stops as Hogwarts Station from the movies. It is a great way to see the moors riding in authentic cars from an era gone by.

Being a time traveler takes….time. If you don’t have a week like we did it is not a problem. In the Yorkshire museum artifacts and exhibits will take you through all of periods.https://www.yorkshiremuseum.org.uk/ ; a great way to spend a rainy afternoon.

Liverpool

There was no way we were going to miss Liverpool. After all the Beatles we're the soundtrack of our youth, especially for John. We had three Beatles song in our wedding and spent many a road trip with our kids singing along with the Lads from Liverpool on the radio, cassette or CD.

To our delight we learned that as important as the city is to popular music it also holds a place in the hearts of football (or soccer as we Yanks call it) fans. Whether you support blue Everton or red” you'll never walk alone” Liverpool this rivalry is deep seeded and multi generational. Think Alabama/Auburn or Dodger/Giants, only these teams are in the same city.

Liverpool has an important historic distinction as well. Located on the Mersey river this was the major port for both commercial and passenger ships for centuries. It was in fact the point of origin for British participation in the infamous triangular trade. Goods produced in the industrial cities of England were sent to the African coast to be traded for people who were then shipped to the Caribbean as a workforce for the plantations. Raw materials from these plantations were then sent back to Liverpool to be turned into products for trade. The museum of slavery did an excellent job explaining the economic and social impact of the slave trade on all three continents .

wrist and ankle shackles

No trip to Liverpool is complete without sampling their official dish, Scouse; A type of stew made with with lamb, beef or both and served with a side of beets or red cabbage to be added at the diners discretion; it is filling and delicious. In fact the people of the city refer to themselves as Scouscers

We had ours with lamb and beets

For all that this city has to offer there is still one (or maybe I should say four) main attraction, the Beatles. We did our best to see it all: the rock and roll museum, the Beatles story, a visit to the cavern and something Street. But by far the highlight was the Beatles Cab tour. We were picked up from our flat by a knowledgeable driver to visit the childhood homes of John, Paul, George and Ringo. Penny Lane to Strawberry Fields, the grave of Eleanor Rigby and the bus stop from a Day in the Life; we saw the places that inspired the music of the Band.

 

From the mythical liver bird statues overlooking the river to the postwar architecture of the downtown, the city has seen its share of prosperity and decline. Yet through it all the people -both red and blue- refuse to be defeated Their Scouscer spirit shows that love IS all you need.