Water, Water Everywhere

Taking a cruise ship across an ocean was fashionable once. In fact it was the only way to get from the Americas to anywhere else. While some may see transatlantic or Pacific cruises as slow, expensive or a waste of time they are anything but those things.

Having done a transatlantic out of Florida last year we knew what to expect and we looked forward to it. It does take days instead of hours but you do not suffer any of the irritations of flight. No jet means no jet lag. Time zones change one day at a time so you are not disoriented upon arrival at your destination. You are not forced to try to sleep in an upright position locked into a chair and eating microwaved food whenever the flight attendants get to you. You don't have to share a bathroom with numerous other people. You get privacy, space and countless food options available virtually 24/7.

Cruise ships are moved from place to place depending on the weather and season. Our ship had concluded the Alaska cruises for the year and was going to Asia for the Winter months. There are fewer ports so the price is considerably cheaper. If you have the time to spend getting to your destination a repositioning cruise may be less expensive than airfare.

With almost no opportunity to leave the ship the activities available on board are extensive and varied. Movies run in the theater and the staterooms, games and contests are in all the lounges and the casino is open all the time (that may not be an advantage for some).Culture lectures, art classes and auctions and of course on board shopping are held almost daily. But perhaps the best thing is the ability to do absolutely nothing. There is no place to go, nothing to see, nothing to do unless you choose to. If you want to get away from it all( with someone else doing the cooking and cleaning) repositioning is for you.

And so we are off. One port at the beginning 3 ports at the end and nothing but time in between.

My daily cup of tea

North by Northwest

And now for something completely different. Our travels to this point have been limited to two continents: North America and Europe,( although we have cruised some Caribbean islands and in his single days John did hit a few places in North Africa.) But those were vacation destinations, not part of our wandering lifestyle. So now we are headed for uncharted territory-Asia. It started with an offer we couldn't refuse. Celebrity Cruises was repositioning a ship to Japan at a price well below our $100.00 a night lodging target. It is a Trans-Pacific so we won't see land for a while but if you have the time it is a great way to travel long distances. Because of this, to go east we must go west. And not just west but north west. The ship leaves from Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

We decided to come up a week early for a few reasons:

1. It is 107 in Southern California. Canada HAS to be cooler.

2. It is opening weekend of college football and we want to see as many games as possible without completely taking over someone else's televisions for 5 days.

3. Vancouver is a cool city and we have not been here since 1992.

It was easy getting here. We were able to fly out of John Wayne Airport in Orange County instead of LAX. After about a 3 hour flight we caught the Metro train to downtown where our apartment was a short walk from the station. By early evening August 31 we settled into our high rise downtown apartment to watch Ohio State play Indiana,( John had recorded on his computer.)

Unfortunately, our apartment does not have air conditioning. This would not be a problem except that Vancouver is experiencing a heatwave this week. They are expecting the temperature to hit 90 degrees. We are on the 21st floor and hot air rises so it is more than a bit warm in here. Thankfully there are two large fans that we are running day and night.

Friday September 1 we headed out to see the neighborhood before the evening games came on. Our walk took us about five miles around the waterfront and over to Gastown, where the city was established. A light lunch at Flying Pig http://theflyingpigvan.com/ then back to the apartment for

steam powered clock

dinner and Washington vs Rutgers.
GameDay Saturday. If you know us you know that for the last few years this is how we spend Saturday in the Fall. Luckily the television here picks up feeds from Seattle so we were able to get the games on ABC and FOX while we watched others on the computer. Both Michigan and Penn State were victorious so it was a good day.

Since location is close to great restaurants we decided to go for Sunday Brunch. Not quite a mile away is Forage http://www.foragevancouver.com/ a farm to table restaurant. I had a duck confit and Kale frittata, John went for the local speciality Shakshuka which is eggs in a pepper and tomato sauce.

Like many major cities Vancouver has a large permanent farmers or public market. Here it is on Granville Island, which is really a peninsula. Just a short city bus ride

away this was the perfect place to shop, have a quick lunch and people watch next to a harbor. A hike in Stanley Park ended our visit here. TIme to board the ship and sail into the great unknown,

Windsor

Our last full day in England took us to the granddaddy of castles-Windsor. Named after the town where it is located WIndsor Castle was built on order of William the Conqueror to provide protection for London and a part of the Thames. A luxurious palace was added in the 13th century making it the longest occupied palace in Europe. With our love for castles it was a must see.

But we didn't. Not the inside anyway. After so many lovely days visiting beautiful places with hardly any other visitors we were somewhat horrified by the mobs of tourists surrounding the castle. We just didn't want to fight the crowds and stand in line for hours. Instead we walked through the town, seeing the real Windsor.

We ate lunch in a pub, visited a park with a statue of the Queen and her corgis and stopped in at a butcher shop to discuss spring lamb (one of the most delicious things we have ever eaten). It seemed fitting that we end our time in this country we had come to know so well not as a tourist but as a local. The castle has stood for almost a thousand years; I’m sure it we will be there when we return.

Windsor Lady inn Bachelor Acre, WInndsor

Battle

As a former history teacher I can honestly tell you that memorizing a lot of dates and names is almost always a waste of time if you want to learn about history. Almost. There are some dates and names that you must know and they usually are connected in some way. In the United States one example is George Washington and July 4, 1776. For the English there is not a date or person more significant than October 14, 1066 and William the Conqueror. So naturally we had to visit Hastings to see the place where WIlliam and his Norman forces triumphed over Harold and the Saxons.

  The battle actually took place a short distance from the seaside town of Hastings in a field

surrounded by woods. This place is now known as the town of Battle. Self guided tours around the battlefield come with wood caeved knights next to signs that indicate significant moments in the battle. An outline remains of the church William had built to honor the dead of both sides. He specifically directed that the altar be built over the sight where King Harold had died,(an arrow through the eye, ouch).

This battle was the last successful conquest of Britain. It also introduced new language, culture and systems of government that spread worldwide as a result of British Colonization. This one day has had a tremendous impact on much of the world making it a date worth remembering.

A plaque marks the spot of Haeolds death

A Day at the Beach

With apologies to Neil Simon, our Brighton Beach Memoirs bear only the same name. As well they should. I am not sure most Americans realize just how many places in America are named after places in England and not all of the have a “New” in front of the name. While many of these places in the United States bare little resemblance to their name inspirations Brighton has some definite similarities. A pier with boardwalk style games and eating establishments, crowds of people with children clamoring to go on carnival style rides and of course the beach.

That is where the similarities end. The beach here is stones, uncomfortable to walk on and impossible to lie on. Thankfully there are beach chairs and umbrellas available to rent for your day at the seaside. I think the umbrellas were to provide protection from the rain rather than the sun. It was quite windy the day we were there so no one was sitting on the beach. The water is the English Channel which ranges from 59°-65° in the summer. Brightons American cousin has the same type of temperature range in summer but is warmest in early February-up to 81° in England that time of year it would be 46°. In any case that is too cold for me to do more than put my toes in the water.

The pier itself was clean with large areas to walk and free chairs to sit in and watch the water or people. We were there midweek so many of the rides were closed which meant it wasn't very crowded. Venues were there that have live music on weekends. Hungry? Fish and chips, ice cream and candy floss (cotton candy) stands are numerous as well as nicer restaurants to dine in. It is worth a short train ride from London if you are looking for something different to do. http://www.brightonpier.co.uk/.

Neil Simons Brighton is an area in Brooklyn next to Coney Island. It is a section of the borough where many Russian and Slavic people have settled. So many so that today it is often called Little Odessa. This Brighton has immigrants also but just like the rest of the UK these are mainly people from former or current commonwealth nations. The town itself is filled with gastropubs and cafes as well as museums, galleries and gardens. The streets are very walkable and the beachfront accommodations are reasonably priced. We had one of our few apartment problems here; what we booked was not what we received so we were able to cancel but that left us truly homeless for the night. Fortunately we found a hotel on the beach with rooms available in the summer at an acceptable price, about ¼ of what the same type of room would cost in the US in a resort city during the summer.

Pilgrim Tales

Timing is everything but luck almost always has a hand in it. That was our case as we moved on to Canterbury. While in Dover we learned of King Henry II. Now in Canterbury we would come face to face (literally) with one of his most infamous acts.

Canterbury is the home of Canterbury Cathedral, mother church of the Anglican community and the

Becket's shrine is marked by a lamp

seat of the Archbishop. We were able to get a room on the church grounds at one of their conference centers. Although this allowed us free access to the cathedral we decided to see it for free in a more traditional way. We attended Sunday morning service there. Whatever your religious beliefs are or are not, this is an experience not to be missed. The service was conducted by the Dean of the Cathedral and included music by Mozart sung by a boys and mens choir. We were given seats in the choir next to the altar which allowed us to see and hear everything clearly. Across from us were students from Germany who appeared to be between the ages of 12-18. Some of the younger boys were quietly “goofing off” as they were out of sight of their chaperones. That is, until they saw me watching them. I gave them the “teacher look” and they did not move an inch for the rest of the service.( It’s nice to know that I’ve still got it.) After the service we toured the rest of the Cathedral. We saw the place where Thomas a’ Becket was murdered and the the story of the controversy regarding his burial.

The site of Beckets shrine is said to be the location where miraculous healings have occured. The cathedral itself has many stained glass windows depicting healing attributed to him either from dreams, drinking water mixed with his blood or through prayer. So many pilgrims traveled to this place that it became the inspiration for Geoffrey Chaucer's work, The Canterbury Tales. Many of these pilgrims from Europe would spend the night at Dover Castle after crossing the Channel before travelling on to Canterbury. The shrine itself was destroyed on the order of Henry VIII during the English Reformation in 1538. Whether his bones and ashes were removed and destroyed by the soldiers or whether they were retrieved and hidden by monks is a mystery of history. Although some speculation that a certain unmarked grave in the cathedral crypt holds the re buried remains, any investigation has proven to be inconclusive.

So what does this have to do with Henry II?

The day we arrived in Canterbury was the day the city re-enacts the penance of Henry II. Henry was accused of having Becket killed due to disagreements over the power of the King vs. the Church. Henry claimed that his knights acted alone but agreed to perform a ceremony of public penance to avoid excommunication. So there we were in downtown Canterbury watching as the “King” walked barefoot over cobblestones in a burlap shift throughout the town, periodically making speeches declaring his innocence. At the end he goes inside a church, as the real King did, to be flogged by Monks.( I don’t think our actor was actually flogged, he looked pretty good at a pub that afternoon)

Sorry, not sorry

Over to Dover

Once again major historic events have occurred in the same place. This time our intersection is in Dover. The legendary White Cliffs are the symbol of this Channel port in Kent. The city is only 21 miles across the water from France and has played a role both against and in support of Britain's closest neighbor.

Dover Castle, high on a hill is the centerpiece of the city. Whether serving as the first line of defense from an attack by the French during the middle ages or as the launching point for European invasions during both World Wars the castle stands as a silent witness of history. If you prefer older history, it is here also. The Anglo-Saxon church of St. Mary stands near the edge of the hill next to the Roman Pharos, one of the oldest standing lighthouses in the world. This one was used by the Romans to aid navigation across the English Channel.

 

Inside the castle walls the Great Tower re-creates the world of the Angevin Dynasty. From Henry II and his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine to their sons Richard the Lionheart and King John, the family drama plays out like a reality TV show.

Underneath the castle is a network of tunnels. Originally built by the forces of Louis of France as they laid siege to the castle the tunnels have served a variety of purposes. During the Napoleonic wars the tunnels were expanded and used as barracks for the military. The 20th century saw the tunnels re-figured again this time as a WWII hospital and as the naval operation command center. It was from here that Operation Dynamo, the plan to rescue the British Army from Dunkirk, was organized and executed. During the cold war the tunnels were transformed into one of Britain's seats of Government in case of a Nuclear Attack.

Whether you arrive by ship or by plane the Cliffs and the Castle are physical symbols that NOW you are in England.

There'll be bluebirds over the white cliffs of Dover

Tomorrow, Just you wait and see

There'll be love and laughter, And peace ever after

Tomorrow, When the world is free

Back to School

Our next stop took us back to the south and back to college. This time our stop was Cambridge. Founded in 1209 it is the second oldest University in the English speaking world. We were able to stay in a former manor home now owned by the University just outside the town. The building has been turned into a conference center and Dormitory so for a night we were technically living “on-campus”.

Our Dorm

Kings College

 The town is small with the schools of the University being the focus.  Although we were only there for one night the peaceful setting and academic environment made us want to return to school. Only as the professors this time.

Things That Go Bump In The Night

Neither of us are fans of scary things. John thinks they are silly and I think they are... scary. I have had what were either actual ghost encounters or the result of pain medication and an overactive imagination. I don't know or care which it is but I am more than happy to leave the ghost stories and experiences to others. Yet in very old places, especially ones with the history that the city of York has it is almost impossible to miss the scary stuff.

Normally we would skip the York Dungeon https://www.thedungeons.com/york/en/ but the city has such a history of nefarious characters such as Guy Fawkes and Dick Turpin that we decided to go, plus it was included on our city pass. The tour took us underground where we were led on a guided tour into rooms, each with an actor who told or showed us tales from the cities dark side. We did not know in advance that audience participation was required and I found myself in a powder keg of vipers as Hilda, Queen of the Vikings. Thankfully I was not the one found guilty and burned at the stake as a witch! There was just enough humor to tell the stories and legends with causing nightmares.

We did not expect any such activity from our visit to the Treasures house. Originally the home of the treasurer of the York Minster in 1091 the house passed through many private owners until it was acquired by the National Trust at the request of the last resident Frank Greene. Greene had the house restored included much of the furnishing to the way he believed it would have looked in the 17th -19th centuries. He was VERY specific about the arrangement of the furnishings, even having studs put in the floor to indicate where the legs of the furniture should go after the floor was cleaned. Upon his death he threatened to come back and haunt anyone who moved any item in the house from where he had placed it. Bold talk but apparently no action. While there are no reports of Frank Greene coming back (possibly because the furniture is placed correctly), Yorks’ most famous ghosts are said to occupy the cellar of the house. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/by-the-look-of-you-youve-seen-the-romans
Happily the cellar was both optional and an extra charge so we did not have any disturbing encounters.

We also managed to miss any activity in The Golden Fleece, advertised as the most haunted place in York.,( a claim shared with other pubs like the Snickleway Inn, the Black Swan and Ye Olds Starr Inn). Are any of these places really haunted? I am happier not knowing.

Time Travelers

The sheer amount of history we have encountered on this trip can make a persons head swim. Here in York and the surrounding area it is as if every major era in British history has left its mark.

If it is the ancient world that interests you stop by the Roman Bath Public House and visit the remains of the baths in the basement of the building. Or stop by the Minster to see the monument to Constantine the Great, who at this site was crowned Emperor of Rome in 306.

I did not expect to see Viking influences to such a large extent in England. I knew they raided the coast and established settlements in Ireland but I was surprised at how far inland they had gone. From the North Sea to York it is a distance of 41 miles. Of course there are good sized rivers,the Ouse and the Humber, that allowed the small settlement to grow into a prosperous trading city. The legacy of the Norse city has been preserved at the Jorvik Viking Center.

https://www.jorvikvikingcentre.co.uk/. Built on the actual location of part of the village discovered by archaeologists the center includes a Disney -like ride past homes and shops of the people  who settled here. The center includes a large number of display cases showing actual artifacts. In addition, costumed artists demonstrate arts and crafts of the period .

Throughout the city the emblem of the white rose is everywhere. We are in War of the Roses country. Along the old city walls at Monk Bar gate the story of Richard III is told. Follow the wall around to Micklegate Bar and learn of Henry VII. Same events, different points of view.

Yorks history isn’t all war and invasion. At Fairfax House http://www.fairfaxhouse.co.uk/ you see how the wealthy lived in 18th century York. Although the furnishings and decor are not original to the house it is all Georgian period authentic. If this is your style, don’t miss Tea at Grays Court Hotel https://www.grayscourtyork.com/. It is a little bit difficult to find but well worth the time. You can be served in the garden if the weather cooperates.

More modern history is on display northeast of York at Camp Eden. Used as a POW camp during WWII, the barracks have been turned into a museum. Each building represents a different time or place during the war. Plan on at least a half day.http://www.edencamp.co.uk/

A must see is the National Railway Museum https://www.railwaymuseum.org.uk/. From the

Flying Scotsman Engine to special cars for the Royal family this is a great museum for any train enthusiast. If looking at these engines and cars makes you long for a rail trip you are in luck. The Yorkshire Moors Steam Railway https://www.nymr.co.uk/pages/category/the-yorkshire-steam-railway-all-aboard-tv-show is not too far away. (We paired the day with Camp Eden) Harry Potter fans may recognize one of the stops as Hogwarts Station from the movies. It is a great way to see the moors riding in authentic cars from an era gone by.

Being a time traveler takes….time. If you don’t have a week like we did it is not a problem. In the Yorkshire museum artifacts and exhibits will take you through all of periods.https://www.yorkshiremuseum.org.uk/ ; a great way to spend a rainy afternoon.

Liverpool

There was no way we were going to miss Liverpool. After all the Beatles we're the soundtrack of our youth, especially for John. We had three Beatles song in our wedding and spent many a road trip with our kids singing along with the Lads from Liverpool on the radio, cassette or CD.

To our delight we learned that as important as the city is to popular music it also holds a place in the hearts of football (or soccer as we Yanks call it) fans. Whether you support blue Everton or red” you'll never walk alone” Liverpool this rivalry is deep seeded and multi generational. Think Alabama/Auburn or Dodger/Giants, only these teams are in the same city.

Liverpool has an important historic distinction as well. Located on the Mersey river this was the major port for both commercial and passenger ships for centuries. It was in fact the point of origin for British participation in the infamous triangular trade. Goods produced in the industrial cities of England were sent to the African coast to be traded for people who were then shipped to the Caribbean as a workforce for the plantations. Raw materials from these plantations were then sent back to Liverpool to be turned into products for trade. The museum of slavery did an excellent job explaining the economic and social impact of the slave trade on all three continents .

wrist and ankle shackles

No trip to Liverpool is complete without sampling their official dish, Scouse; A type of stew made with with lamb, beef or both and served with a side of beets or red cabbage to be added at the diners discretion; it is filling and delicious. In fact the people of the city refer to themselves as Scouscers

We had ours with lamb and beets

For all that this city has to offer there is still one (or maybe I should say four) main attraction, the Beatles. We did our best to see it all: the rock and roll museum, the Beatles story, a visit to the cavern and something Street. But by far the highlight was the Beatles Cab tour. We were picked up from our flat by a knowledgeable driver to visit the childhood homes of John, Paul, George and Ringo. Penny Lane to Strawberry Fields, the grave of Eleanor Rigby and the bus stop from a Day in the Life; we saw the places that inspired the music of the Band.

 

From the mythical liver bird statues overlooking the river to the postwar architecture of the downtown, the city has seen its share of prosperity and decline. Yet through it all the people -both red and blue- refuse to be defeated Their Scouscer spirit shows that love IS all you need.

Just The Two of Us

Anniversaries can be landmine days. Like birthdays, Christmas and Valentines Day businesses have made it their business to tell you how these days should be celebrated. “Show your love with a diamond” or “nothing says I love you like a car in the driveway with a big bow on top”. The message is clear; if you don't deliver the goods you can kiss your relationship goodbye.

While I would never say no to a car or a diamond (I’m not crazy), John and I decided that while we are on this journey we are forgoing exchanging gifts on these traditional days. Instead we are making the experiences the gifts. In addition, if one of us sees something on our journeys that we really want we get it. It is sort of like a deferred gift from a designated holiday.

Anyway this year our 30th wedding anniversary fell here in the countryside of Northern England. They do have really nice 4 and 5 star dining restaurants but not in the villages near us. And a fancy dinner I can have in the States. So when John asked me (as he usually does) how I wanted to spend our anniversary I knew right away. I wanted to go on a picnic.

On the morning of June 20 we packed a backpack with cheese, bread and bubbly and drove down to Lake Coniston. At the launch we were advised to take the taxi boat that both toured the lake and made stops along the bank. We got off at a lovely but less popular location and hiked up the bank to the path. We found a bench overlooking the lake and enjoyed our al fresco celebration. No gifts, No cards, No waiters. Just us together on our day.

The Wall in the North

The Wall in the North is a reality. Now before you Game of Thrones fans get too excited, I am not talking about that wall. But in many ways it is similar. I am talking about Hadrian's Wall. Built in the 1st century by Emperor Hadrian to protect the Roman Empire from the wild Picts of the north. This wall ran 73 miles,across England from the North Sea to the Irish Sea (or at least very close to these waters).Small forts and watchtowers were included in the design to occur every mile to prevent raids on settlements of Roman citizens.

While the wall did not prevent raids, it was effective at establishing the presence of Rome in the North. The citizens who lived there discovered that the most effective way to deal with the Picts was economically, not militarily. As the Empire declined, the wall became a gateway for goods to flow from one group to another, helping everyone to survive in the harsh climate.

With the fall of Rome the soldiers and others who lived there stayed. They intermarried with the Picts and the Britons and established farms and villages. Much of the building material came from the wall itself. Many of the stones were used centuries later in the building of Carlisle Castle and the surrounding town.

The wall today is easily accessible from many locations although some of it does run through private land. We chose Housteads because they had an Interpretive visitor center.http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/housesteads-roman-fort-hadrians-wall/

There are also guided and unguided walks along the wall if you just want to see the beautiful if somewhat untamed countryside.

If These Walls Could Talk

Another day, Another castle. People have asked me if I get tired of seeing so many castles. I don't understand the question. Each one is as different as flowers in a garden So it is with castles in Britain. There are similarities yet each has its own story to tell.

Carlisle Castle in Cumbria was built to protect England’s borders from the threat of invasion from the north. But not from the Scots as you might think, from the Picts who predated the Scots. And who did the building? Why the Romans of course.

More of a garrison and fort then a castle the foundation was laid in the first century AD to protect the Empire in the North. Although the fall of Rome left the site in ruins it was re established in 685. The Castle was reinforced in 1092 and continued to be expanded and strengthened to withstand attacks from the English when the Scots who controlled it and attacks from the Scots when the castle was in English hands. It even withstood an English on English attack during the War of the Roses.

Along the Ramparts

William Wallace, Richard III, Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie were all here as conquerors, defenders or prisoners.Some of the most intriguing stories however come not from the famous but the anonymous. Were the carvings in the walls of keep done by prisoners as first believed or merely the work of bored guards? In the dungeon below, indentations in the limestone walls show how desperate prisoners literally licked the walls for water, surviving long enough to be executed or sent to the West Indies as slaves. Was this, as many believe, the place where the lyrics were written to the well known song Loch Lomond?

So many stories. The same and yet different stories of struggle and sacrifice, hardship and hope, victorious and vanquished.

Another castle? Yes please!

carvings in the keep

Potter's World

Mr. Jeremy Fisher, Mrs. Tiggy -Winkle, Mr. McGregor. No these are not the new teachers at Hogwarts. These Potter characters are the creation of Beatrix Potter. Benjamin Bunny, Jemima PuddleDuck and of course Peter Rabbit can be found throughout England's Lake District.
While many of the towns and villages have shops that feature “Officially Licensed” Peter Rabbit gift items, we went in search of a less retail based experience with the animals of the stories. We considered the World of Beatrix Potter Attraction in Bowness-on-Windermere http://www.hop-skip-jump.com/ which may have been good if we had young children. Instead we chose to visit Hill Top, the actual home of Beatrix Potter. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top/features/beatrixs-hill-top-house
The road to Hill Top was narrow and curvy as with so many roads in the district. Also, as with the

Vines at the entrance

other roads, the trees, farms and views of the lakes was spectacular. A limited number of people are allowed in the house at a time so we had an opportunity to explore the garden. This was an actual farm so although there are herbs and flowers in the garden there is not a created home for fictional characters.

 The house itself is filled with excerpts from Potters letters and sketches of her characters in every room. Many of the items are displayed in a rotation so guests can see different things during subsequent visits. Original drawings and illustrations can also be seen at the Beatrix Potter gallery in the village of Hawkshead, a short distance from Hill Top. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/beatrix-potter-gallery-and-hawkshead 

notes from a distorted window

Time prevented us from visiting it so we drove the curvy road back to our home for the week. And guess who was waiting in our garden? A Peter Rabbit of our own.

The Lovliest Spot That Man Hath Ever Found

If you are a lover of poetry or English Literature, this is the place for you. I am talking about the Lake District. It is also the place if you love walking through field and fell, hiking up mountains or fishing in rivers and lakes.

The title of this post comes from Lake District poet, William Wordsworth. He and his contemporaries including Coleridge and Scott often wrote of or were inspired by the natural beauty of the region. It is truly an outdoor lovers paradise. Miles of trails through fields and over hills, along the lakes and rivers run throughout the region. Just be sure to shut the gate as you cross through pastures of grazing sheep.

For the truly ambitious hike up Old Man Coniston, just over three miles up on somewhat rugged terrain.https://www.walklakes.co.uk/walk_2.html At least that is what we heard. We chose to pass on this one as it would take a full day and there was so much to see in only a week. We did do some hikes through beautiful forests and walks through charming villages.

Whether you come here on a literary pilgrimage or just to stop and literally smell the roses, there are not many places lovelier than England’s Lake District.

“You may leave the Lake District, but once you’ve been, it’ll never leave you…”
                                                                                                                           Anonymous

A Good Walk Spoiled

If you are a golfer, (or married to one),no trip to Scotland would be complete without a visit to some of the country’s most famous courses. Just over an hour drive from Edinburgh are Carnoustie and St Andrews, sites of many British Open Championships. Sorry, I meant THE OPEN.

Scottish courses can be very different from those in the United States. I had seen the rugged landscape before, both on television and on other courses we visited this trip. But Carnoustie seemed almost desolate. If not for the greens and the flags and the golfers it could have been any one of a number of moors overlooking the ocean.. We were surprised and delighted to discover that the course

Pot Bunkers

was open to anyone wanting to go for a walk as long as we stayed on the path and listened for the call of  FORE. There were others walking the these paths, some with their dogs and others cutting through to climb down the cliff to the beach. Of the four courses here I am not sure which one we walked but after days in the city it was nice to be away from buildings and traffic noises.https://www.carnoustiegolflinks.co.uk/

On to St Andrews, known as the “Birthplace of Golf”. The town itself reminded us of Carmel, California. Upscale boutique shops and restaurants filled small streets and alleys located off the main thoroughfare. We stopped for lunch at Forgans http://www.forgans.co.uk/st-andrews/ a very cool restaurant (it had a reading room in the dining area). Butternut Squash

literary lunch

Wellington and Duck Confit Shepherd's Pie, my taste buds are happy just writing about you.

St Andrews is actually seven courses with the Old Course being the most famous. https://www.standrews.com/ While this one is not accessible to non players there were quite a few people like us driving up to look at the course from the walkway along the border. Although there were some running out on the course during play to quickly snap a selfie on Swilken Bridge at the 18th Tee most spectators left the links to the golfers. Near the Old Pavillion is West Sands where the beach scene from Chariots of Fire was filmed.

Can you hear the theme song?

                 

     As always, too soon it was time to leave. A good walk spoiled? Not if you walked here.

Jewel of the North

As with many cities, Edinburgh is comprised of a cluster of hills. The most prominent of these is Castle Rock, the location of Edinburgh Castle. https://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/. There has been a castle on this site since the 12th century. Its political and military importance give it the distinction of being the most besieged place in Great Britain.

Although no monarch has lived there since 1633 the royal palace is filled with items from the reign of Mary, Queen of Scots, including the chamber where she gave birth to her son James who would later become King of England as well as Scotland.

The castle is also the home to the Crown Jewels of Scotland. The crown, scepter and sword, survived Oliver Cromwell and his destruction of all symbols of the monarchy only to be locked away again with the dissolution of the Scottish Parliament in 1707. It was not until the author, Sir Walter Scott, was given permission to look for the items in 1818 were they returned to the people of Scotland and displayed at the castle.
                                                                                                                                                                    Like most of the Scottish castles we visited, this one pays tribute to the military. Within the walls of the castle is the Scottish National War Memorial, the Scottish National War Museum and the regimental museum for the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, also known as the Scots Greys. The

highlight of this museum was seeing the French Eagle, https://www.military-history.org/articles/napoleonic/royal-scots-greys.htm and the life sized statue of a soldier with his grey horse.  

The role of this castle in all things military include Mons Meg, a state of the art artillery piece from the 15th century and the Half Moon Battery whose cannons are set to fire upon anyone approaching the castle. We also went into the dungeon where prisoners of war were kept in the 1700’s.

This was a great castle to visit if you have limited time in Scotland. The exhibits provide a look into the vast history of Scotland in one location. For us it brought together the pieces and parts we had discovered during our three weeks in the country. It is easy to understand why Scotland is a jewel to be acquired (if you can).

City of Stories

Edinburgh-city of Kings and Criminals, Authors and Adventurers. It is very much a modern city with a history that will not be forgotten.

Sir Walter Scott monument

If my friends who love literature visited Edinburgh I am not sure they would ever leave. This is truly a city of stories and storytellers. It is in fact UNESCO’s first city of Literature http://www.cityofliterature.com/the-literary-city/read/edinburgh-city-literature-starter-10/10-edinburgh-literary-statues/ Statues and monuments are located throughout the city to honor authors such writers as Arthur Conan Doyle, as well as writers of philosophy and economics David Hume and Adam Smith. Although she does not yet have a statue, the Elephant House one of the pubs where J.K.Rowlings penned her Harry Potter books has a large sign proclaiming it to be the “Birthplace of Harry Potter”.

A small museum off the the Royal Mile-the main drag of the old city- The Writers Museum celebrates the work of three of Edinburgh's famous sons; Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns. https://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/writers-museum It is located in a house in Lady Stairs Close. Lady Stair and her family are believed to be part of the inspiration for Scott’s novel, Bride of Lammermore.

A visit to Grassmarket provides plenty of other inspiration for tales to be told. From Half Hangit Maggie http://www.the-grassmarket.com/history/maggie-dickson.html to the collection of cadaver “volunteers” at the White Hart Inn The colorful history of this part of town will inspire anyone. Pull up a seat at the Last Drop Pub, across the square from the gallows ( I love a good pun ) and learn about some of the infamous citizens of Edinburgh including serial killers Burke and Hare http://www.scotshistoryonline.co.uk/burke.html and the real Jekyll and Hyde, Deacon Brodie http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-31018496.

Site of the Gallows

Stories of “Murder Most Foul” are not confined to the poorer sections of town. At Holyroodhouse Palace, the official residence of the British Monarch in Scotland, https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse/highlights-of-the-palace-of-holyroodhouse#/#mqos bloodstains are said to be still visible from 1566. It was in the oldest part of the palace where David Rizzio, the private secretary of Mary Queen of Scots, was stabbed to death by her husband Lord Darnley and other Scottish nobles. The mystery around the death of Lord Darnely himself, although not at the palace, is just another chapter of Royals behaving badly. https://www.historicmysteries.com/murder-lord-darnley/ .

the Palace gardens

Not all of the stories are based on murder and mystery. One of the most endearing stories is that of Greyfriars Bobby a skye terrier who stayed by the grave of his owner for 18 years. A memorial bronze statue of Bobby stands at the entrance to the cemetery. The dog himself is buried just outside the border but as close as possible to his owners grave. But this may be the greatest story of all. Recent research seems to prove that this tale was a publicity stunt to get people to visit Edinburgh. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2021906/Greyfriars-Bobby-hoax-Dog-kept-vigil-masters-grave-publicity-stunt.html Whether truth or fiction it is still, like so many others, a tale well told in a City of Stories.

Mans best friend

Identity Crises

     We do not usually take guided tours or transportation but who can resist a deal? As always John had researched places to visit and things to see. He groups things together on the daily itinerary geographically so we don't waste time zigzagging a city. All we needed was a detailed walking map. We went to the Edinburgh Visitors Center to get one and naturally we were bombarded with visual advertisements for this “midnight walking ghost tour” or that “secrets of the city” bus ride. Every city, it seems, has ghosts and secrets. Anyway as we waited for our turn at the counter we noticed a combination ticket for the Castle, Holyrood Palace, the Royal Yacht Britannia and a three day hop on hop off bus pass. All of these things were on our itinerary except the bus but if someone is going to include it for free then ok. Especially since one of the stops was near our flat in Leith. It was a deal too good to miss even if it meant appearing like -tourists.

     I know that sounds funny since we are traveling around to so many places but I am talking about TOURISTS; people who visit another country or place and complain because it is not like home. They stay in large groups and block the doorway or walkway for other people. They are usually loud, pushy and more concerned about getting back to the hotel for lunch since it was part of the travel package they bought. Some tourists are so busy filming or taking selfies that they don't actually see anything. Invariably, if there is a shop within a hundred yards it will be filled with tourists buying the most ridiculous of things as gifts or mementos. There are those tourists so afraid of being robbed that getting to a wallet is like breaking into Fort Knox..And they always travel in buses.

     But here we were “hopping on” to a double decker open air bus with many tourists. We were given headphones to hear the narration as we drove past significant places in and around Edinburgh. It was awesome. Not only did we get a great view of the city from the top deck, but we were also able to get a feel for the size of the city and what was or wasn't walkable. The narration included some great background information about the city as well as some of the famous and infamous citizens both past and present. With four different lines we were able to traverse the city with ease, at least for three days. It is definitely a good choice when visiting a city for the first time. Now where is the shop with the bagpipe magnets?

Loving Leith

     After our time in the Highlands we headed back to big city experiences in Edinburgh Our flat was actually Leith, a suburb of Edinburgh. It was an old cooperage with a lot of the industrial architectural elements remaining.

 We checked in as quickly as possible, in a hurry to get to a pub to watch Scotland vs England in a World Cup Qualifying game,although we had been assured that England ALWAYS wins. We had trouble finding a pub that we could get into as the ones showing the game were standing room only with people pouring out into the streets. Finally just before halftime we found a place that we could actually sit down and see the game. With only four minutes left Scotland had the lead; you could feel the excitement as the seconds counted down. Sadly, with one minute left England scored ending the game in a 2-2 tie. It wasn't a loss but it also wasn't a win. The once full and loud pubs were empty and quiet.

This is a very cool neighborhood with great restaurants and pubs along the river.Two of our favorite restaurants were the Ship on the Shore https://www.theshipontheshore.co.uk/ for really fresh seafood and live music and Kazban Mediterranean http://www.kezbanedinburgh.co.uk/. Both of these were close to our flat so we were able to park the car and walk to them. For pubs, Teuchters Landing is a must do http://www.aroomin.co.uk/teuchters-landing-bar-edinburgh/. Go for breakfast and be prepared to share the Full Scottish with at least one other person.


Leith is also the location of the Royal Yacht Britannia, the decommissioned vessel of the British Royal family. You can board the yacht and see not only how the Royals spent leisure and business time but also ho the ship was used in times of crisis such as evacuating refugees from Aden during their civil war. The casual elegance of the decor, plus the tea room made this a lovely place to visit on a cloudy and sometimes rainy afternoon .http://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/

It was easy to take public transportation into Edinburgh making this the perfect place to stay away from the noise and crowds of the city- a true hidden gem.